Vitamin C, when used topically in a serum, is broadly acclaimed as the most effective elements for brightening pores and skin, boosting collagen manufacturing, and defending pores and skin in opposition to environmental harm. It’s so widespread that even on the 2024 Medical Spa Present that I attended, vitamin C was an enormous subject of dialog. Nevertheless, not everyone seems to be as constructive about it as you might suppose. Whether or not you’re an esthetician, dermatologist, or only a skincare fanatic, you’ve probably heard of 1 main downfall with regards to this ingredient: the vitamin C acid burn.
So, what is that this? Sure vitamin C formulation, when utilized to the pores and skin every day, could cause a burning and stinging sensation, together with redness, pores and skin that’s scorching to the contact or a common feeling of irritation. This happens as a result of a topical vitamin C is eliciting a nervous neural response in your pores and skin. As your pores and skin senses publicity, it tries to warn you in opposition to one thing it doesn’t need– on this case, a low pH product. Nevertheless, I don’t consider this facet impact ought to discourage you in opposition to vitamin C solely– let me clarify.
Advantages of Vitamin C In Your Skincare Routine
The addition of a topical vitamin C serum into your skincare routine may be extraordinarily useful to your barrier and enhance total pores and skin well being. Listed here are probably the most notable explanation why.
- Brightens Pores and skin Tone
- Possible probably the most revered profit, vitamin C lessens pigment manufacturing in pores and skin, making it look brighter.
- Boosts Collagen Manufacturing
- Not solely does this ingredient assist shield the collagen you have already got by inhibiting enzymes that typically break it down, but it surely additionally aids in more healthy collagen manufacturing.
- Protects In opposition to Environmental Harm
- Vitamin C’s highly effective antioxidant properties neutralize free radicals and shield the pores and skin from harm attributable to UV radiation, air pollution, and different environmental stressors.
- Enhances Pores and skin Hydration
- This ingredient has additionally been proven to have moisturizing properties, serving to enhance hydration ranges and plump pores and skin.
Understanding Vitamin C Sensitivity
Let’s resolve why this painful burning and stinging sensation typically happens– and what you are able to do about it!
Why Does Vitamin C Burn or Sting?
The burning sensation is mostly attributable to three issues:
- A very low pH. Low pH ranges of two.5-3.5 can probably irritate the pores and skin. They will enhance the acidity of a serum, resulting in a compromised barrier and a better potential for stinging, particularly for delicate pores and skin.
- A excessive amount of ascorbic acid. This ingredient must have a minimal of 8% to have any efficacy in pores and skin. At round 22%, the pores and skin stops with the ability to take up it. So most of those vitamin C serums that sting have a low pH and excessive amount of ascorbic acid. This acid is a really small molecule, so it will probably simply get into the pores and skin and disrupt its pure pH steadiness.
- A compromised barrier or current use of actives. Individuals who use lively elements (retinol, retinoids, exfoliating acids, and so on.) and folks with compromised obstacles usually tend to really feel a stinging sensation. It is because once you use exfoliating acids or retinoids, you expertise a variety of pores and skin turnover, which means that the pores and skin on prime is extra uncooked and uncovered. If you have already got a lowered barrier and proceed to make use of vitamin C, you received’t have sufficient lipids in your pores and skin to assist shield it from a product with a low pH. That is going to trigger a extra unfavorable expertise, and in flip, can truly result in extra irritation.
Don’t Give Up – There’s a Answer!
Simply because you might be coping with a vitamin C acid burn, doesn’t imply it’s important to forego the ingredient solely. There are nonetheless methods to obtain the entire advantages of vitamin C– with out the acid burn! Let’s talk about.
- What to keep away from
- Low-pH Merchandise: These can result in long-term irritation within the pores and skin, inflicting accelerated indicators of getting older and elevated pigmentation (as soon as your physique receives a sign that there’s irritation, elevated pigment manufacturing could happen). Search for formulation with a ph vary of 5.0-5.8. A good model ought to let you know the pH if it’s not publicly listed.
- A No-Ache-No-Achieve Philosophy: In contrast to retinol, ache (ie stinging) isn’t an indication of vitamin C efficacy however might be an indication of irritation.
- Vitamin C Sandwiching: Whereas a retinol sandwich is an effective way to obtain the entire potent advantages of a retinoid with none of the dryness, flaking, or irritation, the identical can’t be mentioned for this ingredient. When sandwiching a vitamin C serum between two layers of moisturizer, it truly simply impedes the power of the ascorbic acid, relatively than minimizing the potential unwanted effects of vitamin C.
- What to do
- Search for Alternate options: There are many vitamin C kinds utilized in skincare, and which one you select positively issues. In case you are experiencing a vitamin C acid burn, it’s time to search for a extra steady system. Maintain studying to find out which one is best for you!
Discovering Stability
Searching for out a steady vitamin C is one of the simplest ways to keep away from a vitamin C acid burn, however what precisely does this entail?
What Does A “Secure Vitamin C” Imply?
Once you hear {that a} type of vitamin C is “steady,” this refers back to the means of the product to take care of its effectiveness over time and publicity to air, mild, and temperature. A steady vitamin C will sometimes preserve its efficiency longer, be much less liable to oxidization, and can probably comprise supporting elements that enhance efficacy.
Ever observed your white or beige serum start to show yellow or mild brown? This implies the product has develop into unstable and begun to oxidize, which means you might be not receiving the whole thing of its meant advantages.
It’s essential to notice that all skincare elements ultimately expire, even probably the most steady of vitamin C serums. Ensure you use it earlier than you lose it!
Why Do Vitamin C Formulations Matter?
Selecting the best vitamin C therapy could appear a bit difficult, however since vitamin C doesn’t all the time work the identical, it’s essential to grasp their variations. Vitamin C formulations matter as a result of they will drastically impression the soundness, effectiveness, and total efficiency of the vitamin C product. Elements reminiscent of lively versus inactive types of vitamin C, pH worth, further elements, and even texture, scent, and total really feel can drastically have an effect on how your pores and skin responds to a particular product.
What Makes Vitamin C&E Therapy Completely different?
What’s nice about Vitamin C&E Therapy is that it doesn’t use excessive portions of ascorbic acid and it has a extra skin-friendly pH. Utilizing each lipid and water-soluble types of vitamin C, this serum gives potent antioxidant exercise deep throughout the epidermal layers.
Using tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD), this skin-brightening cream ensures a slower launch time than water-soluble molecules, which means an extended window of lively vitamin C and a decrease potential for irritation. For those who’re seeking to profit from all the advantages of vitamin C with not one of the burn, this long-time best-seller is the one for you.
Ideas for Selecting Secure Vitamin C Merchandise
As intimidating as it could be, strive to not be discouraged by the huge array of vitamin C merchandise in the marketplace. Listed here are just a few ideas for avoiding the ache and discovering the proper serum for you.
Ingredient Examine
On the subject of frequent types of vitamin C in skincare, there are 4 that come to thoughts: L-ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Right here’s how they differ.
- L-ascorbic acid: Regardless of being a tried and true ingredient, this isn’t your finest guess with regards to antioxidant safety. The one lively type of vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is extremely unstable and, because it’s an antioxidant, it desires to react with virtually all the pieces in its atmosphere. This implies this ingredient has a excessive probability of oxidizing earlier than it will get an opportunity to make it into your pores and skin.
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: An ideal possibility for pores and skin varieties that wrestle from breakouts, this has been confirmed to assist enhance pimples, however can nonetheless be fairly reactive.
- Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate: A fancy mix of many compounds relatively than only a easy vitamin C by-product, this type has been proven to strengthen the membrane of pores and skin cells and have improved supply into pores and skin.
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: That is considered one of my private favorites (and the star ingredient in Vitamin C&E Therapy) as it’s the solely oil-soluble type of vitamin C that I’ve talked about thus far. Due to this, it received’t react till it comes into contact with the oils in your pores and skin, making it probably the most steady type of these 4. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate can also be identified to penetrate pores and skin 20x greater than ascorbic acid!
Packaging Issues
As I discussed, vitamin C serums may be extremely unstable, reacting to virtually all the pieces from mild and warmth to oxygen, water, and metals. For this reason product packaging could make all of the distinction.
This ingredient must be packed in opaque or tinted bottles that shield the product from mild publicity, as mild, particularly UV mild, could cause it to degrade and develop into much less efficient. Ideally, the product must also have an airless pump to attenuate air publicity, retaining the serum recent longer. Each of those will even scale back the chance of contamination, making certain it will probably ship its desired results to the pores and skin.
Vitamin C Software Strategies for Comfy Use
Need to begin your journey towards the very best vitamin C for you however anxious in regards to the penalties? Right here’s one of the simplest ways to get began!
Patch Testing
Whereas looking for the best vitamin C product for you, it could take a little bit of trial and error– however you don’t should destroy your pores and skin barrier within the meantime. Each time anybody is making an attempt out a brand new product, the very first thing I do is suggest a patch take a look at. Apply vitamin C to your neck (the place pores and skin is probably the most delicate) to assist decide what varieties of merchandise or elements will trigger a unfavorable or allergic response in your face. This can assist slender down which skincare product or ingredient to check out sooner or later.
In conclusion, whereas vitamin C is a extremely praised skincare ingredient identified for its means to brighten pores and skin, increase collagen manufacturing, and shield in opposition to environmental harm, some folks could expertise the dreaded vitamin C acid burn. This burning or stinging sensation may be attributed to elements reminiscent of low pH ranges, excessive concentrations of ascorbic acid, or a compromised pores and skin barrier. Nevertheless, I don’t suppose this could deter you from reaping the advantages of vitamin C. By understanding the causes of sensitivity and selecting steady formulations, you possibly can incorporate vitamin C into your skincare routines successfully and comfortably. With the best strategy, vitamin C generally is a priceless addition to any skincare routine, selling more healthy, extra radiant-looking pores and skin.
I hope you discovered this publish informative! And as all the time, #obeyrenee

Movie star Esthetician & Skincare Professional
As an esthetician educated in beauty chemistry, Renée Rouleau has spent 30 years researching pores and skin, educating her viewers, and constructing an award-winning line of merchandise. Her hands-on expertise as an esthetician and trusted skincare professional has created a real-world resolution — merchandise which are formulated for 9 several types of pores and skin so your face will get precisely what it must appear and feel its finest. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare obsessives across the globe, her huge real-world information and fixed analysis are why Marie Claire calls her “probably the most passionate pores and skin practitioner we all know.”